“It’s been a long fashion week,” stated Glenn Martens. Fresh off his debut assortment for Diesel, introduced in Milan, the designer was again in Paris engaged on his coed line for Y/Project, which this season included a collaboration with Fila.
Despite taking up an additional job, Martens has been having fun with the slower tempo of labor on Y/Project, after presenting his first unifed males’s and girls’s assortment final season. It’s allowed him to take inventory and delve deeper into product classes.
“I think it results in a collection which feels a bit more settled,” he stated. “In the past, we would have 20 million stories in one collection, and people kind of lost it at a certain point because they really didn’t know what to focus on.”
The label’s signature twisted constructions centered on the neckline: suppose sweaters with a number of neckholes, or tailor-made jackets and coats with a collar-framing extra lapel. Slipdresses got here with sheer organza panels for DIY draping, whereas faux leather-based jackets featured triple shoulder constructions that may very well be worn a number of methods.
There was a tropical undercurrent to the lineup, echoed within the whorled floral patterns integrated into denim jackets and skirts, and oversize earrings like gilded orchids. Shoes included the label’s second collaboration with Melissa on jelly slides topped with oversize blooms.
But you can additionally discover a easy white males’s shirt, or a number of evergreen denims with graphic particulars like a foldover waist flap. More accessible nonetheless had been the Fila items, which included tracksuits with snap button panels that peeled off to disclose the brand of each manufacturers.
Sweatshirts got here with slit necklines, whereas double sweaters had an additional high connected for ornamental draping. “It’s these really strong twists that we did in the past, which were implemented on very iconic Fila garments from the archives,” Martens stated, including that he additionally put his stamp on the sportswear model’s Grant Hill sneaker.
With his more and more centered method, the designer makes a robust case for slowing down. “I’m never gonna go back to four collections a year,” he stated with fun.