A scene in Julian Barnes 2019 novel “The Man in the Red Coat” describing pioneering Belle Epoque gynecologist Samuel-Jean Pozzi touring to London to buy at its shops was the springboard for the Wooyoungmi spring assortment.
“Around the same time, you had strong, intelligent, smart women like Marie Curie,” stated artistic director Woo Young Mi, who was intrigued by the contradiction between these two distinguished scientists — one an extravagant man and the opposite a scholarly girl.
From the Nobel Prize winner, she took the Art Nouveau volutes that adorn her award certificates, the glowing inexperienced of radium and early protecting gear manufactured from thick canvas.
The juicy carmine pink from John Singer Sargent’s portrait of Pozzi. Dandy components included sculptural cuts and opulent textures reinterpreted in trendy supplies, reminiscent of a crushed velvet expressed by way of crinkled nylon. Familiar to the Wooyoungmi world have been the distinctive L-shaped shoulder line of jackets, the trendy sports activities utility gear and sensible jeans.
Woo’s continued pursuit of a shared wardrobe led her to desert distinctions reminiscent of gendered buttoning, additionally layering the opulent and the utilitarian on the identical silhouette, worn indifferently by female and male fashions, typically showing collectively in the identical outfits.
Lab coats turned short-sleeved utility shirts worn with shorts. Radiation hoods turned bolero hoodie jackets. Bishop sleeves amped up the drama of an extended, striped poplin shirt whereas a parka executed in powder blue crinkled nylon regarded prepared for an evening on the opera. Waist-cincher belts pulled sleeveless hoodies with a glow-in-the-dark brand or tailor-made parkas nearer to the physique.
Playing on the period’s title, the slogan of “Chacun mérite sa Belle Epoque,” “everyone deserves their own beautiful time” in French, appeared on T-shirts and luggage, whereas the model’s brand was given an Art Nouveau makeover.
Set in opposition to the backdrop of Antwerp practice station being gently distorted by way of CGI for the season’s movie, the gathering felt of the second, but ageless.