The invitation to the Vìen digital present for spring was a vinyl document that includes “Babylon” by Rome-based artist Zero Portrait, the chillout soundtrack to the model’s vogue movie.
Music appears to be an countless supply of inspiration for designer Vincenzo Palazzo, who this time appeared again to Manchester’s storied nightclub The Hacienda, a hotbed for the acid-house motion that took town’s occasion scene by storm within the late Nineteen Eighties and early Nineties.
While the video filmed at Milan’s membership Magazzini Generali didn’t fairly telegraph the rave angle of Hacienda’s heydays (search on-line for Peter J Walsh imagery for a greater glimpse), the early ‘90s really feel got here via within the garments, a redux of British garb with some Mod inflections.
Tailoring was boxy and twisted through patchwork constructions combining wool and denim, accentuated with slender ties and pristine white shirts. Trench coats with darkish indigo sleeves had been thrown over a silk shirt bearing a psychedelic print – a fairly literal reference to acid home completed in several colour combos from rusty tones to grass greens.
Elsewhere, the designer went off-track with workwear-inspired saggy pants with flap pockets and outsized shirts accessorized with cumbersome fanny packs that learn mountaineer greater than partygoer.
While subcultures are nice references to play with, the gathering lacked the rebellious spirit one would anticipate from a Joy Division and New Order fan like Palazzo.