VENICE — “Fashion is not art,” believes Valentino’s inventive director Pierpaolo Piccioli. “Fashion always has a practical scope while art is an end in itself.”
While not swaying from this idea, artwork performed an integral half in Piccioli’s Valentino Des Ateliers couture assortment proven in Venice on Thursday, as 22 out of the 82 designs on the runway have been created in an change with an eclectic and worldwide group of 17 artists. And whereas the garments could also be conceived as purposeful, they have been as dreamy as may be and mainly artistic endeavors themselves.
Case in level, a portray by Andrea Respino impressed a surprising intarsia coat — nearly trompe l’oeil, mentioned Piccioli — manufactured from 150 completely different swatches of materials, from satin to taffeta, laminated and sequined. One may catch glimpses of the portray on the entrance of the garment, whereas the again was conceived with the assistance of Respino, responding together with his personal creativity to the design.
Another standout was a protracted, glittering sequined slipdress worn below a floor-length, taffeta bouillonné cape with a sample harking back to poetic photos of the moon mirrored on a lake by Chinese artwork curator and photographer Rui Wu.
Employing Valentino’s signature purple archival materials, a sleeveless robe was embellished with an allover sample of palms “that seek intimacy at a time when you can’t really touch anything,” mentioned Piccioli, referencing a piece by artist Alessandro Teoldi.
Convinced that portray is to up to date artwork what high fashion is to style, Piccioli labored primarily with painters and a dramatic white and purple robe and cape reproduced by James “Jamie” Nares’ single brush strokes — a present stopper if ever there was one.
“Fashion and art are creative practices that respond to different purposes — one linked to the body and movement, the other completely free from constraints of sorts — which nevertheless find a conjunction in the atelier: the place of making, of thinking with the hands, of translating a desire, an idea, a sensation into a tangible object,” Piccioli defined.
They share a typical intent to mirror a historic second, a perspective, every by its personal language, he continued. “I felt there was a lack of connection, of confrontation and I needed to create a factory of artists, a community with different points of view that would inspire one another. I did not want to stamp a painting on a T-shirt, as a museum memorabilia, but to reflect the spirit of the artist.”
Piccioli is conscious viewers could miss all these layers and interpretations, really having fun with “the intimacy of this knowledge. There can be a deeper reading of the artist or pure fashion, as fashion is in the creative process and not in the packaging. The art is integrated in the aesthetic and there is no story telling. Fashion must create beauty and arouse interest and curiosity. It can also be powerful, have a political language, and be a photography of the world. Often the world changes and fashion realizes it later, but I would like to drive change.”
Piccioli underscored Venice was a aware selection and that he couldn’t have proven this couture assortment wherever else, deciding on the Gaggiandre location, a part of the Arsenale that hosts the International Art and Architecture Exhibitions and the International Dance, Music and Theatre Festivals of La Biennale di Venezia — which Valentino is sponsoring.
“When I start a collection, I think of the final image,” he mentioned, admitting it was “a challenge to insert an artistic dialogue in the show.”
Piccioli succeeded in presenting an equally highly effective lineup in the remainder of the gathering, the place the silhouette was both lengthy and layered, or quick and sculptural, with some echoes of his spring couture, minimalist designs.
Once once more, he shunned gender id and confirmed skirts over pants and appears on males that would simply have been worn by ladies, as in a combo of shirt, pants — with zippers operating the size of the legs or on the ankles — and cape in refined shades of geranium pinks. Indeed, maybe impressed by the artists’ use of coloration, the palette was mouthwatering, with vivid pops of azure, purple, mint and bottle inexperienced, fuchsia, mustard and purple — which contrasted with the required white gown code of company.
Piccioli shied away from describing the cuts of the coats and shirts, however they have been completely and architecturally executed.
The petites mains labored their marvel on a lime inexperienced bouffant robe with a material that’s often realized on chiffon however on this case was created on taffeta, marveled Piccioli himself.
The solar setting on the ocean, singer and songwriter Cosima performing dwell and a hanging group of grand ballgowns closing the present made for a theatrical expertise and it’s protected to say no one was lacking being glued to a display.