The visitor designer on the a centesimal version of Pitti Uomo, Thebe Magugu used his spring 2022 presentation as a stage to lift consciousness of some of the critical points affecting his native nation, South Africa: corruption.
As he mentioned throughout an interview just a few days forward of the present, the designer additionally needed to pay homage to these courageous women and men who, as whistleblowers, try to sooth that sore.
To obtain his intent, Magugu organized a form of theatrical efficiency wherein he recreated a police station, the place fashions, taking part in the a part of the whistleblowers, alternated at a desk to go away their depositions in entrance of a two-way mirror. Portrayed as white hat cowboys, they had been separated by way of the glass from black hat cowboys in a metaphorical battle between good and evil.
The Western reference took middle stage within the assortment. It was highlighted not solely by way of the usage of equipment — together with cowboy hats and boots and belts with metallic buckles within the form of the model’s Sisterhood Emblem — but additionally by the clothes. An extended, lean coat was printed with a custom-made bandana sample, which was splashed on a technical puffer jacket, whereas pants, that includes a silhouette impressed by cowboy chaps, had been embellished with allover graphics that Magugu sourced from the archives of political cartoonist Jonathan Zapiro.
The designer well built-in Western touches into his exact tailoring crafted from conventional luxurious materials in Prince of Wales and tartan motifs. For instance, the fits’ pants featured built-in suspenders product of the identical cloth that echoed these of cowboys’ lengthy johns. The trenches minimize in smooth shapes and embellished with contrasting stitching had been additionally infused with Western influences.
There was one thing stylish concerning the jacquard shawls wrapped across the shoulders of the fashions, whereas a extra glamorous vibe was launched. for instance with a leopard silk shirt worn with a sky-blue go well with.
With his elaborate presentation, Magugu — who gained the LVMH Prize in 2019 — as soon as once more demonstrated that he’s not solely an opinionated, mental artistic, but additionally a proficient designer who continues to efficiently form his inventive identification on the worldwide stage.