“Instead of a rave, it’s more of a love and gratitude festival,” Rick Owens mentioned of his spring males’s present, staged on the Venice Lido seashore amid pounding dub music, hand-carried fog machines and water jets spewing enormous arcs towards the shore.
Despite that runway bombast, Owens is conflicted in regards to the hedonistic impulses which might be being unleashed as pandemic restrictions ease. “I feel like there is this voracious appetite to make up for the time that we lost,” he mused over FaceTime, squinting within the morning solar a couple of hours earlier than the noon show. “I thought we were going to come out of this feeling a little bit more grateful and a little bit more humbled after experiencing a sense of powerlessness that we’ve never experienced before as a generation.”
His assortment — all heroic, hole-punched tailoring, filmy tops and puddling pants, a lot of it in white — embraced hedonism, “but I didn’t want entitled hedonism. I wanted grateful hedonism,” Owens mentioned, happening to explain an “elegant hippy” vibe exemplified by the members of Led Zeppelin in saggy bell-bottoms and open shirts.
Owens mentioned this would be the final of his COVID-19-era exhibits. He’s carried out 4 livestreamed occasions inside a couple of blocks of his Lido island residence, which isn’t removed from his manufacturing unit in Concordia sulla Secchia, Italy, and so they’ve all been terrific.
Here he exalted tailoring, hacking away at sleeves and armholes, leaving little greater than “decorative breastplates” in some appears to be like. “It’s a way to enjoy tailoring in the summer,” he shrugged, turning round to point out off the Frankenstein-shouldered coat dangling off his again. (He places straps in all tailor-made objects to allow them to be carried hands-free like a backpack.)
His meticulously detailed press launch notes that he used quite a lot of specialty ateliers and suppliers, together with silversmith Goossens and French feather workshop Maison Février, which made a few of Josephine Baker’s well-known efficiency plumes.
Is Owens gearing as much as launch an high fashion assortment? Nah, he mentioned, explaining that his strategy to trend has all the time been to introduce flamboyance and glamor into ready-to-wear.
“I always wanted all of the most extreme runway possibilities to be possible for daytime,” he mentioned. “All my career I’ve tried to gently introduce a little bit of excess into everyday wear. Like even with a T-shirt that’s a little bit longer and has a little bit more drape and that takes up a little bit more space. It has a little bit more pageantry to it. I mean, it can happen with T-shirts, it can happen with black shorts, it can happen with sneakers. I think my main motivation is to exoticize the mundane.”
There was definitely nothing mundane about his lean coats, flowing robes and flaring pants licked with zippers. This season, he’s even introducing a private fog machine, which will be tucked right into a pocket on the aspect of his platform boots.
“A fog machine is a rock concert. It’s the incense in the church. So I love it,” he mentioned. “It’s just a very simple device that has become a logo for me. Or if it hasn’t, I’m turning it into one.”