MILAN — Escapism and a need to return to some type of normalcy.
Those have been among the many key themes within the spring 2022 collections proven throughout Milan Men’s Fashion Week, maybe finest exemplified within the stunning Sardinian seashore captured by Prada for its video. “Prada’s wonderful romp in Sardinia was filled with great, uplifting resort-friendly items, cleverly styled sport jackets, shorter shorts and fantastic bucket hats,” stated Bruce Pask, males’s trend director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus.
Federica Montelli, head of trend at Rinascente, stated “all designers presented a relaxed inspiration,” combining “casualwear with an elegant touch. The settings for the shows or the fashion movies celebrated resort as the strongest theme, testifying our wish to go back to travel and enjoy life, the ethereal quality of green and nature, and in some cases the power of celebration and party.”
Everyone has gotten used to consolation through the lockdown and that is arduous to surrender, so designers introduced their new interpretations of the swimsuit, which was marked by a extra nonchalant and straightforward model with relaxed suits. Shorts, cargo pants, sport jackets and bombers have been proven along with deconstructed blazers and light-weight cardigans in earthy tones, however the shade palette was jazzed up at occasions by acid, pop hues. Retailers hailed the vary of equipment — at all times a forte of Italian manufacturers — together with Prada’s bucket hat.
While IRL exhibits can’t come too quickly, retailers praised the steps taken to supply entertaining movies.
Here’s what consumers needed to say in regards to the Milan males’s collections for subsequent spring.
Bruce Pask, males’s trend director at Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus:
Favorite collections: Mr. [Giorgio] Armani felt completely in his factor reinterpreting what a swimsuit can feel and look like in the present day. I additionally actually beloved Brunello Cucinelli’s optimistic name to decorate up, however at all times in his straightforward, elegant approach.
Trendspotting: Dressed up occasion-based clothes and appears for going out; shorter shorts; new takes on the game jacket and up to date work wardrobe; daring, clashing shade; the cargo pocket.
Must-have merchandise: Any of the various sport jacket choices and alternate options we noticed; a dressed up search for after 5; a Prada bucket hat…only for the enjoyable of it.
Video format: I assumed the epic, architectural movie by Alessandro Sartori [for Ermenegildo Zegna] fantastically captured not solely the relaxed, sculptural clothes but in addition the uplifting, optimistic temper within the air.
General touch upon the season: What does it imply to dress up in the present day? That query appears to have been on many designers’ minds when making ready their spring collections, optimistically anticipating the vaccine rollout and the pent-up need to collect collectively and exit, dressed for any and plenty of events. Both Giorgio Armani and Brunello Cucinelli determined to tackle new interpretations of what the swimsuit means to them, with the often fairly informal Cucinelli man donning neckties, double-breasted jackets and pinstripes with shirts unbuttoned on the neck, typically with sneakers. Mr. Armani explored quite a lot of relaxed jacket choices from bomber, trucker and zip-up kinds to shirt jackets and most with matching pants. We are additionally seeing some thrilling eveningwear and occasion-based clothes, dressed-up tailoring and appears made expressly for going out. Dolce & Gabbana introduced a flashy, bejeweled assortment made expressly for cocktail hour and into the night time, with colourful jacquard fits worn with open, silky shirts and beaded jackets paired with distressed denim.
We are seeing nice innovation and updates to the concept of the work uniform and what which means in in the present day’s quickly altering surroundings. Unconstructed, unlined sport jackets in sturdy supplies and button entrance and zip entrance light-weight cardigans that perform as informal work-friendly jackets have proliferated. New relaxed chore jackets in quite a lot of supplies in addition to jersey sport jackets are all nice new choices for informal workwear in addition to weekend. Zegna, particularly, is a number one innovator of the brand new work uniform, whereas Kiton has additionally relaxed and refined their unstructured tailoring in stunning pale impartial mixtures, giving it a sporty edge that feels refreshing. We additionally noticed the significance of this new relaxed tackle the game jacket in a trend context from collections like Prada, the place it was proven with sleeves pushed up, over unbuttoned knit cardigans and graphic tees, worn with shorts rolled up or floppy, fluid pants and sandals.
We are seeing a lot of festive shade, particularly in mash-ups and clashing shade and sample. The Versace pre-collection featured some nice psychedelic prints and Etro’s colourful botanical prints and daring solids have been standouts.
Joseph Tang, trend director at Holt Renfrew:
Favorite collections: We proceed to be excited by the intersection of design concepts from Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada. They introduced a brand new tackle the digital runway by showcasing the evolution of the gathering as fashions emerged into the sunny seashores of Sardinia. Fendi’s daring tackle tailoring was refreshing to see. The sweet shade pastel hued suiting separates and fluid silhouettes have been a spotlight of the week.
Best presentation idea: Alessandro Sartori’s new takes on tailoring at Ermenegildo Zegna showcased a contemporary approach for learn how to costume. The gender fluidity between the seems represented breaking down the normal codes of males’s put on.
Trendspotting: The fluid and exaggerated silhouettes of the season have been seen by way of wide-legged trousers, billowy shirts and mushy layers. There was an general sentiment of escapism this season with designers specializing in easy-to-wear journey items to get him wherever he needs to go.
Must-have merchandise: Beach bag from Prada; boxy shirt from Zegna; coordinated printed swimsuit from Fendi.
Video format: Designers embraced Italian landscapes that amplified the need to put on these collections on an Italian vacation. Fendi’s assortment below the Roman sundown was a standout for the season.
Buying course of: We are hopeful that we are going to quickly have the ability to journey for in-person market appointments, however till then we nonetheless lean on the digital shopping for portals to write down the collections. The know-how that designers have invested in to showcase the product in one of the best ways potential has been instrumental for making correctly knowledgeable shopping for choices.
General touch upon the season: Escapism was the widespread message all through the Milan collections this season with a glimpse into how we’ll need to costume post-pandemic. From the nomadic spirit at Brioni to the brand new fluid codes of males’s put on at Ermenegildo Zegna, the spring 2022 males’s collections supplied a brand new imaginative and prescient of what males will need to put on.
Lee Goldup, males’s put on purchaser at Browns:
Favorite collections: Prada, Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna and Children of the Discordance.
Best presentation idea: Sunnei’s digital avatar fashions and Prada’s visible journey beginning in crimson corridors, akin to a science fiction film, to a Mediterranean seashore paradise.
Trendspotting: Short shorts, pinks and purples, light-weight co-ords and head-to-toe shade matching.
Must-have merchandise: Everything from Prada. Especially the floral hoodie and bucket hats.
Video format: I really like how artistic manufacturers have been digitally; it’s been inspiring to see, However, the IRL expertise is unmatched.
Budgets: We haven’t diminished any budgets; nonetheless, as at all times are rigorously contemplating how and the place we spend them. As manufacturers proceed to really feel the consequences of the pandemic, we’ve reviewed and adjusted how a lot and what we are able to purchase to make sure we’re servicing the client with seasonal product throughout all classes.
Buying course of: Although the method of us shopping for for spring 2022 isn’t too completely different from final season as we stay principally digital, we’re all very comfortable to have extra IRL appointments this time round, connecting with our model companions and are hoping for much more within the seasons to return.
General touch upon the season: It’s nice to really feel a way of optimism as we see extra runway exhibits taking place against digital shows and loads of vibrant temper lifting colours.
Federica Montelli, head of trend at Rinascente:
Favorite collections: Prada, Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Etro, MSGM, Tod’s, Sunnei. Interesting debut from Glenn Martens at Diesel. To watch: Dhruv Kapoor and Federico Cina.
Trendspotting: Extremely brief shorts are trending, from Prada to Fendi to MSGM, in addition to tank tops, sandals with a sports activities perspective or with a artful contact, towel materials in hoodies as seen at Etro, in addition to a plethora of bucket hats that stay a powerful industrial merchandise. Most manufacturers have additional experimented with the gender-fluid aesthetic, with “skorts” — a hybrid between shorts and skirts — or crop tops and cropped blazer jackets, as seen at Fendi. Summer knitwear remains to be sturdy, in oversize crewnecks and vests, experimenting with chenille and openwork knit.
Must-have merchandise: Prada’s bucket hat with the V-brim and pouch has emerged as essentially the most photographed merchandise of as of late, along with Fendi’s cropped blazer.
Buying course of: We are nonetheless shopping for portion of the collections digitally, however being based mostly in Milan we attempt to purchase within the showrooms as a lot as potential and reprise some kind of normality.
General touch upon the season: The deal with shade was stronger than ever — be it pastels, gradients or pop colours — to verify the optimist and joyous vibe for the season. Comfort is now a given idea, not newness anymore, and is confirmed by roomy shapes and fluidity in supplies.
Justin Berkowitz, males’s trend director at Bloomingdale’s:
Favorite collections: My private favorites are those that spoke to mushy, refined and casual simplicity: Ermenegildo Zegna, Massimo Alba, Brioni and Giorgio Armani. All acknowledged fairly clearly that we’re going to be residing extra casual lives whilst we return to routines that really feel a bit extra like they did earlier than the pandemic. They additionally proposed methods of dressing that felt recent, refined and life like. Men, popping out of the previous 12 months and half, are going to want to do some wardrobe rebuilding and these manufacturers offered the cornerstones — the posts, the lintels and the pediments.
Trendspotting: New approaches to tailoring that fuse softness and a sportswear sensibility as seen by the relaxed suits on clothes and mushy quantity, together with monochromatic dressing. Also, nods to utility, patch pockets, cargo pockets and efficiency materials. Many issues ’90s resurfaced as a pattern, with pastels assembly acid brights, bucket hats, broad pants and shorter shorts. Prints that stay someplace between summary painted waves, photo voltaic flares and ombre have been additionally outstanding. We’ll see these traits embodied in our Bloomingdale’s assortment subsequent 12 months.
Must-have merchandise: It’s fairly arduous not to consider luggage proper now as we’re getting out of our properties in earnest for the primary time shortly, and wish an merchandise to carry the stuff of life. My cash’s on Prada’s surprising tackle a hobo or Fendi’s mini cross-bodies.
Video format: There have been many sturdy movies this season — I’m grateful for them! Zegna, Prada and Fendi are high of thoughts for nice cinematography, soundtracks and capturing one thing of the sort of temper you hope to know once you sit bodily for a present.
Margaux Lataste, males’s put on luxurious and designers purchaser at Printemps:
Favorite collections: Prada, Fendi, Diesel.
Best presentation idea: Prada summer time escape in Sardinia. We lastly get out of the tunnel and reaccess nature and the surface world.
Trendspotting: Pop colours, cabana stripes, classic, retro, shorts, necklines, leather-based jackets, relaxed and luxury tailoring, semi-open trousers and layering.
Must-have merchandise: Prada males’s bucket hats with a coin purse on the again and two holes through which to place sun shades.
Video format: Prada accompanied with Richie Hawtin techno soundtrack.
Buying course of: Digital format aside from some manufacturers internet hosting a showroom in Paris. Brands have carried out an excellent job to permit us to purchase in the very best circumstances.
General touch upon the season: General need of summer time and freedom, events, pleasure and the sensation of a return to the sources and origins.
Sam Lobban, senior vice chairman of designer and new ideas at Nordstrom:
Favorite Collections: Prada, Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Brunello Cucinelli and Massimo Alba.
General touch upon the season: We love the intense, gentle and joyous use of shade, texture and form throughout the board in Milan. Almost all the designers spoke to some model of reflecting on what has transpired over the previous 18 months and gladly reemerging into the world with a renewed sense of optimism and joie de vivre. Be that the tremendous cool beach-ready Prada assortment, the practical and chic take at Fendi or Alessandro Sartori’s continued exploration into what tailoring can feel and look like at Zegna. Cucinelli’s gentle and ethereal mixture of sporty and swimsuit feels spot on for what we see our buyer shifting to, and final however not least, we’re huge followers of what Massimo Alba has been doing to construct his personal world of quietly luxurious, elevated however informal sportswear.
Riccardo Tortato, head of shopping for departments and males’s trend director at Tsum in Moscow and DLT in St. Petersburg:
Favorite collections: Brunello Cucinelli
Best presentation idea: Ermenegildo Zegna
Trendspotting: New suiting
Must-have merchandise: Kiton tuxedo
Budgets: Possible enhance
Buying course of: We have been shopping for stay in many of the showrooms additionally through the pandemic and we preserve doing so now. We have at all times been welcomed by a majority of the manufacturers and I’m comfortable to begin to see extra colleagues round.
General touch upon the season: It is the start of the return to regular. I extremely appreciated all of the manufacturers that did stay trend exhibits or shows. I assumed and hoped that many extra manufacturers would have supported the style system with bodily occasions in Milan. I believe through the trend week in September we are going to see a number of coed trend exhibits.
I used to be personally touched by the tip of the Armani trend present. Mr. Armani was the primary to shut the showroom and to adapt strict protected measurement and one of many firsts to [have restarted] with a magic stay present. Overall I preferred Brunello Cucinelli’s message that after a “stay-home year” celebrated the swimsuit and the Italian good style, as nicely Kiton that bravely introduced a capsule devoted to tuxedos and eveningwear.
Andrea Selvi, senior purchaser at LuisaViaRoma
Favorite collections: Ermenegildo Zegna was my favourite, due to the brand new prospects it supplied by way of mixing tailoring and modern materials with tonal ensembles and androgynous silhouettes. Prada, which noticed extra Raf Simons’ influences, is pushing all males’s prospects to get out after the pandemic.
Best presentation idea: Sunnei’s presentation was very sturdy and modern, bringing a futuristic imaginative and prescient [of fashion].
Trendspotting: Happiness remedy. After this lengthy lockdown interval, designers pushed [men] to have enjoyable for subsequent summer time: From MSGM to Dolce & Gabbana, we’ve got seen plenty of recent colours, glitters and beach- and party-ready apparel. All the materials have been mushy in step with the consolation that males found final 12 months.
Must-have merchandise: The very “short” Bermuda pants.
Video format: Prada was the most effective with its unbelievable decor and nice Sardinian seashores.
Budgets: We continued the pattern of final season, rising spending on the boys’s classes.
Buying course of: The shopping for staff will attend Pitti in Florence, and will probably be again to the showrooms in Milan and Paris for high-budget shopping for classes, whereas for rising manufacturers we are going to proceed to purchase by way of their on-line platforms.
General touch upon the season: After Milan Fashion Week, we really feel plenty of optimism for 2022.
Mytheresa males’s shopping for staff:
Favorite collections: Prada
Best presentation idea: Prada
Trendspotting: Bags and common accessorizing with sun shades, hats and different equipment proceed to be key to present males’s put on traits. The use of pastel colours additionally appeared prominently.
Must-have merchandise: Fendi sandals and Prada hats.
Video format: Prada
Buying course of: This season, we’re doing a mixture of bodily and digital appointments.
General touch upon the season: We like what we’ve got seen to this point, particularly close to styling, which has proven sturdy layering combined with equipment and luggage to finish full seems. The pastel shade palette has additionally been fairly fascinating and engaging to see. We most definitely are trying ahead to seeing what’s to return in Paris.
Daniel Todd, shopping for supervisor at Mr Porter:
Favorite collections: Prada, Brunello Cucinelli and A-Cold-Wall.
Best presentation idea: Ermenegildo Zegna
Trendspotting: Relaxed and comfy tailoring, vibrant and daring prints.
Must-have merchandise: Prada bucket hat
Video format: Tod’s “Under the Italian Sun,” it left me dreaming of a summer time vacation in Tuscany.
Buying course of: Our groups usually are not touring this season so we will probably be conducting all our buys by way of distant appointments by way of the digital showrooms.
General touch upon the season: This season there’s a common sense of escapism and freedom throughout the spring 2022 collections with a relaxed and casual aesthetic. Structured kinds are reimagined in free, relaxed shapes with gentle and vibrant hues dominating.
Damien Paul, head of males’s put on at Matchesfashion:
Favorite collections: Prada and Fendi
Best presentation idea: Prada, the seashore was actually transportive.
Trendspotting: Flashes of flesh — shorts, naked arms, fluid materials, summer time tailoring.
Must-have merchandise: Short shorts and skirts
General touch upon the season: Fun is again — we’re able to exit.