MILAN — Pomellato’s second excessive jewellery assortment, La Gioia, is certainly conceived “to bring pure joy after so many months of restraints,” stated artistic director Vincenzo Castaldo.
It can be a serious improvement of the model’s dedication to sustainability.
As the pandemic didn’t enable Castaldo to journey world wide — at all times an awesome supply of inspiration for the designer — he traveled by way of time, revisiting storied and signature Pomellato items in a form of metamorphosis, and taking “an introspective journey into Pomellato’s history.”
Castaldo underscored that “rather than being inspired by the past,” he bodily reworked the jewels “with a new disruptive approach, creating new jewels. The collection came together in a fun, spontaneous way. It was wonderful to find such a seamless interaction and natural harmony between pieces from Pomellato’s past and present.”
The designer admitted he was influenced by the normal Japanese mending method and artwork of kintsugi that upcycles broken gem stones, repurposed into one-of-a-kind jewels, which led to Pomellato’s first capsule assortment final January, as reported.
For instance, Pomellato’s first crosses date again to 1984 and within the excessive jewellery Bavarole Trittico, Castaldo built-in three signature designs right into a single neo-Baroque necklace. A gold and garnet Byzantine cross from 1993 is flanked by two rose gold and jet crosses from 2003 and 2013, the latter delicately engraved. Gold bracelets from 2004 type the chain from which the 2007 Harem assortment’s gold and rock crystal pendants are suspended.
“This is a sustainable approach to jewelry, breathing new life into jewels that were part of our archives,” stated Castaldo.
The “idea of re-loving” displays Pomellato’s values and can be very a lot consistent with the environmental efforts of dad or mum group Kering, stated chief government officer Sabina Belli. “There is continuity in this collection, a desire to bring sustainability to the world of luxury goods that also allows us to reinvent ourselves both as artisans and designers,” stated Belli.
The jewels have been made on the Casa Pomellato ateliers in Milan, the place 100 artisans work to make every assortment by hand, sourcing gold that’s licensed.
“The idea of this chapter of the collection originated in a conversation with American artist and designer Sheva Fruitman” stated Castaldo, who rigorously chooses his phrases to completely convey his ardour for jewellery. “We were discussing sustainable development in the luxury industry, and she suggested using vintage jewelry to create new designs for our new collection. We thought it was a very interesting idea, and I used the elements from our past as fragments of our memory, then anchored them in the present.”
In the model’s excessive jewellery phase, Castaldo has aimed to “maintain the same irony and irreverence that Pomellato has always brought to traditional jewelry.”
With the Haiku Turquoise T-chain, Castaldo reworked a Japanese coin-shape carved from a vibrant turquoise into an uneven closure, and added a T-bar clasp in jet. Yellow and rose gold parts from the 1996 Moneta Giapponese assortment and the 2008 Victoria assortment are complemented by two coin shapes set with a diamond pavé that add heat to the jewel.
Pomellato’s ardour for coloration is expressed within the Rivière Venezia design, a fragile mixture of pastel gem stones from the 2009 Arabesque necklace and the Pin Up earrings from 2006, with smoky quartz, prasiolite, amethysts and rock crystals. In the identical spirit, the 2006 Eva cameo earrings with a snake motif are paired with blue topazes, juxtaposing opaque, natural materials and clear gems.
For what he referred to as the second chapter of the gathering, the designer centered on the home’s wealthy historical past of chains and sautoirs. A standout, for instance, is a white gold chain composed of hyperlinks set with a pavé of two,300 white diamonds and a 48-carat tanzanite pendant in a uncommon cabochon lower. Castaldo stated it took greater than 700 hours of labor to create this distinctive piece.
A 76.66-carat pink rubellite seems to drift on the heart of the daring Rubellite Chain choker. The design’s minimalist strains of two overlapping rose gold chains encompass the cabochon-cut stone surrounded by diamonds.
The Lock Chain blends genders with female yellow and gold hyperlinks held collectively by a padlock set with diamonds that provides a number of methods of securing the jewel. The Gourmette Assoluta exhibits extra-large rose gold hyperlinks set with a pavé of brown diamonds and 5 electrical blue-purple tanzanite cabochons weighing a complete of 70 carats full the jewel.
“This was a deeply personal voyage into the treasures of our past,” concluded Castaldo.