For spring, Julien Dossena whisked his viewers off to Monaco — via the display screen — sending his Nineteen Sixties- and ’70s-flavored lineup down a sun-kissed rooftop runway that missed the Mediterranean. It was each glamorous and groovy, drawing on Op Art from Victor Vasarely, which added geometric patterns to the elongated silhouettes that shimmered within the brilliant mild.
Dossena was pondering of the ocean and the solar — “that primal sensation and the happiness that you feel,” he remarked throughout a preview of the gathering in a Paris studio. He was additionally fascinated with the period’s sexual tensions, and girls’s empowerment.
Toggling between body-covering and skin-baring seems, he piled on the layers — clothes and accessories. Tunics and attire had been tossed over trousers and harem pants, then got here the chunky bracelets, mesh scarves, waist bands lined in oversize eyelets and chain belts. That is to not say he didn’t supply skimpy, too — an eye-popping sample of circles in blue, turquoise and yellow was labored into a brief skirt and bra high, a motif that known as to thoughts the stretchy Jean Paul Gaultier gown worn by Kim Kardashian West final 12 months. Contrasting with the circles, Dossena added sandals with lacework that crawled up the leg. Another look was woven collectively in macramé and embellished with silver beads, Ibiza hippy model.
Topping off the seems had been tassled caps, bucket hats and scarves, generally with fringes masking the face. And he plucked clogs and chunky sandals from the archives, brushing them up for a up to date viewers.
Vasarely’s patterns abounded, utilized in all colours and textures — knits, jacquards, jerseys, laser printed and even drawn out with sequins. Models criss-crossed the huge seaside runway, following the traces of the colourful tiles underneath their ft — one other work from Vasarely, known as “Hexa Grace.”
Allover sequin seems had been placing. Toying round with optical results, Dossena lined the underside of a sequined skirt with further massive ones; the cropped, sleeveless high carried a picture of “La Baiser.”
“Since this is now our main collection, there was a desire to explore graphics as a panoply as ideas,” stated Dossena, as quoted within the present notes.
A panoply, sure — richly textured and sensual, fashionable however with a bohemian streak. As the style world swerves to embrace individuality, the glammed-up spirit of this lineup is bound to resonate.