With his fourth assortment — “Guardians” — since he returned from a five-year hiatus, Nicomede Talavera continues to discover what fashionable males’s put on design will be.
The new assortment is a mixture of parts of sports activities, like fencing and boxing; Fifties couture silhouettes, and a touch of astrology-related psychic power.
“I like to mix different references and recontextualize different ideas to create something modern,” he mentioned.
Talavera’s tackle the game felt youthful and energetic.
“The reason I started looking at fencing is I really appreciate that it was one of the first and a very noble sport. I find the purity of the white and off-white uniform really beautiful as well as the silhouette of the jacket, cropped trouser, and layered chest guard,” mentioned Talavera.
A stand-out piece is that this chest guard piece that is available in white sq. quilting or wet-look fake fur. He paired the quilted model with a pair of cropped trousers, and a skirt for the fur model. The designer suggests it’s worn over a T-shirt or jacket in actual life.
His fascination with fencing additionally spilled over to the model’s collaborations with James Pink Studio on hats and Kepler on a knitwear capsule.
A black knitwear model, for instance, from the Kepler capsule has a curved hem, which is a play on the fencing jacket hem. A peaked cap model made by Pink derived from the concept of taking a fencing face protector and turning it horizontally.
With boxing, he referenced boxing robes and shorts within the design of hoodies and paneled breeches, respectively.
An outsized quilted coat demonstrates how the designer channeled ’50s ladies’s couture, particularly Cristóbal Balenciaga, with fencing and made it stylish for at present’s viewers. He additionally explored the balloon-draped again silhouette with extra variations on males’s hoodies and bombers jackets.
As a crystals lover, Talavera made shirts, coats and shorts with prints he developed by scanning completely different crystals from an encyclopedia. He believes that “crystals bring me strength and I feel when you wear those pieces, I get that same spiritual energy.”
The assortment additionally options some sturdy outerwear choices, reminiscent of a double-layered shelter coat with a high-draped neckline, and a padded parka with completely different pocket particulars, in addition to playful utility shirts with diagonal entrance pockets, epaulets and cropped sleeves.