Couture week heralded the return of reside runway exhibits, cocktail events, black-tie trend dinners — and going to the flicks, the latter because of John Galliano and Maison Margiela.
The designer conscripted “La Vie en Rose” director Oliver Dahan for his function movie, “A Folk Horror Story,” projected on one of many greatest screens on the Champs-Élysées.
It began out as a documentary, with Dahan quizzing the designer about his inspirations and dealing strategies, splicing it with footage of the Margiela atelier, which was pressed into all types of experiments: chopping mirrors, darning sweaters with newspapers, and washing, shrinking and enzyme-washing all types of materials till they shrunk, rumpled and frayed to perfection.
Then the movie acquired actually trippy, following — for a few centuries — a gang of youth that lived by the ocean blissfully mending nets, weighing fish and traipsing round in clog-bottomed wader boots — till a phantom ship arrived with its cursed crown, unleashing a scourge of black fungus and showers of flaming meteors amid unusual pagan rituals.
Spoiler alert: In a seven-minute podcast, Galliano notes that each nasty flip of occasions the central narrator had foreseen was stitched right into a sweater — if you’ll be able to decode the hidden meanings of knit panels resembling Delft tiles.
The film examined one’s persistence, working on lengthy after everybody had completed their popcorn, and getting louder and weirder. And then all of a sudden all of the rugged great thing about Galliano’s garments erupted like fireworks.
As Dahan’s digital camera panned upward on a couple of dozen seems to be, the entire designer’s experimentation and creativeness got here collectively in attire, coats, fits and denims that all of a sudden seemed much less like madcap buccaneer costumes and extra like couture with actual emotion, narrative and historical past constructed into each sagging lapel, rough-hewn sew and broken-bottle embellishment.
A padded slipdress sagged elegantly askew, whereas a good-looking officer’s coat revealed a gleaming lining via intricate cutouts achieved by way of a brand new method anointed Anonymity of the Lining.
One may spend hours unpacking how Galliano’s obsession with moonlight, classic denim, loden coats and white T-shirts are “intrinsically linked” to the movie’s script and the gathering’s central thought of “alchemy” — or you possibly can simply let it wash over you, which is what the designer urged on the finish of his podcast.
“That’s what the film says: Learn to trust your instincts,” he stated. “Listen with your heart, not your head.”