Three years in the past Los Angles primarily based jeweler Jonne Amaya launched her personal model with an ethos hyper-focused on sustainable practices.
The fantastic jeweler — who started her profession in jewellery design in her native Mexico, studying benchwork and learning gemology — says her items are designed with intention; and it’s an concept she takes severely. Rather then create collections or designing in bulk, she solely creates one-of-a-kind items for her shoppers.
“If jewelry is meant to last forever, why are we continuously told to buy new pieces?” she defined. “What we should be doing is taking what we already have that we don’t use, or have grown out of, and transform it into a new design, while maintaining the sentimental value.”
Here, the rising designer chats with WWD about what sustainability and her heritage intimately imply, to each her and the model.
WWD: How does your Latinx heritage affect your creations?
Jonne Amaya: Mexico has artwork all over the place — it’s one of many cities with essentially the most museums on the earth. Mexican tradition normally is extraordinarily artistic, very joyful, colourful, handbook and really creative. You’ll discover it with road distributors, who’re usually promoting one thing they made by hand. When it got here to studying bench jewellery, I wished to study in Mexico, since usually it’s a extra hands-on observe from the beginning. I first realized the fundamentals from Zarina, a Mexican jeweler from Oaxaca. She taught different jewellery making and in addition taught us to form amber (a fossilized tree resin) with water and sand paper. I then moved to a extra conventional faculty, Academia de Orfebres, which was an unbelievable place to study correct bench work. I selected to review this in Mexico slightly than within the U.S. as a result of we’re given extra artistic freedom when studying. This is the fundamentals of my work — nothing is about in stone, so the artistic freedom restarts with every consumer.
WWD: The time period sustainable will get thrown round loads, oftentimes diluting the thought. What does sustainability imply to you and to your model?
J.A.: Sustainability means making aware choices within the current, in order that we don’t compromise the power of future generations to do the identical. Most industries, together with jewellery, have their very own approach of setting requirements inside their provide chain, however, sadly, these requirements aren’t all the time essentially the most clear. The manufacturing course of of jewellery in addition to different merchandise ought to meet each social and environmental tips — and shoppers ought to pay attention to what they’re supporting after they make a purchase order. On our finish, we don’t mass produce. We have a cap of 10 customized items per 30 days. It’s tremendous essential for shoppers to remember that sustainability and mass manufacturing don’t go hand in hand. We additionally largely give attention to repurposing what shoppers have already got and redesigning it altogether. We unmount all stones and recast consumer metals. By repurposing, we can assist remove the necessity for brand spanking new mining and we depart a extremely small footprint by small manufacturing caps.
WWD: Your intention is to design with intention, are you able to develop on that concept?
J.A.: Design with intention implies that we’re customized designing every merchandise for the precise consumer. There is all the time an intention behind each facet of the piece. Whether we’re deliberately utilizing a particular stone they inherited, or whether or not we’re designing with a sure form as a result of it has which means to the consumer. Nothing is pre-designed, which is essential when eager to personal one thing particular. It additionally refers to the truth that our firm values are curated, and that we design with the intention of being sustainable.
WWD: What steps do you are taking to evolve when it comes to sustainability?
J.A.: I feel that any model that focuses on being sustainable can all the time higher their practices. On my finish, my focus this 12 months is with coloured stones. Since some customized orders do require mining, I’d like to satisfy mine house owners within the U.S. and go to their services. Small mines which can be family-owned within the U.S. are usually held to greater requirements than bigger mines. Their methodology of extraction is completed extra thoughtfully they usually additionally handle provide and demand higher. It’s much less about quick bulk and extra about having their enterprise run an extended time (Basically they extract stones slower).
WWD: Any recommendation you’ve gotten for different rising manufacturers and the way they will incorporate sustainability?
J.A.: At the second, it’s simpler to be an rising model and begin off with the appropriate values, slightly than be a big-name model and attempt to change their fame. Small manufacturers ought to actually dive deep into their course of — analysis totally different supplies that can be utilized, determine a method to be impactful from the core, slightly than try to make an impression vertically. For instance, numerous huge firms that don’t monitor their footprint usually provide to donate a proportion of gross sales to moral or sustainable analysis/ organizations. It’s counterproductive to do hurt on one finish, however idiot your client by providing one thing good on the opposite finish. Small firms could make huge adjustments, and it’s small firms that maintain bigger firms accountable.