After taking his visitors to a lavender area in Provence and a wheat area outdoors Paris, Simon Porte Jacquemus staged his first trend present in a yr in a movie studio in an industrial zone on the outskirts of the French capital.
But not like the frilly village sq. he recreated for his fall 2019 assortment, this set was easy to the purpose of abstraction: a inexperienced mound surrounded by a blue wall that delivered to thoughts the “Teletubbies” kids’s TV present.
“I wanted to focus on the clothes, the silhouettes, the colors, the fabrics, the details and the energy of the models. I wanted the set to be minimal and sharp, recreating an abstract artistic mountain that portrays the inspiration of the collection,” Jacquemus stated on a yellow card left on visitors’ seats.
In an uncommon step, the designer – who just lately shared the information of his marriage ceremony along with his 3.5 million followers on Instagram – declined interviews. This newly reclusive method coincided with the model’s shift to a seasonless mannequin, with the student “La Montagne” assortment available for purchase instantly after the present.
That put the main target squarely on his solid, which included Kendall Jenner, making her first Paris runway look because the begin of the coronavirus pandemic, and Bella Hadid, who the week earlier than had attended the Dior males’s present as a front-row visitor.
Both sported ultra-skimpy appears to be like that echoed the off-duty outfits they wore to the present, in a neat little bit of synergy that ought to set money registers ringing. The barely-there fuzzy black cardigan that Jenner donned on the runway is accessible for pre-order on the Jacquemus web site, priced at 230 euros.
The assortment was segmented into color-coded blocks, presumably for ease of on-line looking, and was impressed by trekking and ski garb, blended with the label’s signature lingerie-inspired appears to be like. Boys and women wore midriff-baring knit tops, paired with ample trousers with foldover waistbands and ornamental twine particulars under the knee.
Shearling and puffer jackets – lengthy for him, cropped for her – alternated with tailor-made appears to be like. An ’80s-style beige males’s swimsuit jacket got here with dropped shoulders and gathered sleeves, whereas ladies’s jackets and coats with jutting shoulder pads regarded slick when secured with hook belts, and messy when sliced away on the chest.
Fabrication has by no means been the designer’s forte, and it was missing on his stretchy ladies’s fits with flared pants, which puckered on the seams.
But he has a knack for creating must-have gadgets, which this season included the aforementioned micro-cardigan, fixed with a metallic Jacquemus nameplate; furry orange mules (515 euros) and the brand new inflexible, rectangular Ciuciu bag (840 euros) – all modeled by Jenner.
It made for a good merchandising assortment on-line, however a considerably charmless expertise in particular person, particularly in contrast with the extremely atmospheric spectacles he has staged previously, which capitalized on his native area of Provence and keenness for artwork and ceramics – to not point out the charismatic persona on the middle of all of it.
This season, the sunny Jacquemus who opened a pop-up flower store throughout lockdown was in hiding.