Onye Anuna settled his concentrate on London this season and marked the segue from Nigeria, the place he lived in the course of the preliminary phases of the pandemic and produced the final assortment, by kicking off the video himself. He’s proven wandering in a lush African countryside, barefoot, in a shiny, elegant purple trousers-and-shirt ensemble.
The viewer is then thrust to a concrete parking storage in London, the place fashions stride out, additionally barefoot, in sharp tailor-made fits, slim pants with cargo pockets and patterned shirts, left open at instances. The silhouettes have been pared all the way down to the necessities — of an elevated kind — with outerwear together with a trim navy puffer, white bomber jacket and electrical blue windbreaker usually serving as a single layer, with nothing worn beneath.
Tailoring, a key focus, was gently tweaked, with refined army references at instances, and the occasional workwear element. Classic items have been drawn up from a checked herringbone wool in a tart blue; printed cotton denim was one other cloth sourced from high-end textile suppliers in Britain.
Anuna, who has constructed his label on an exploration of Black cultures with a view to casting them in a up to date mild, referred to as the gathering “Staying Afloat, Just,” reflecting the present, tumultuous instances, as properly the scramble to organize for the Paris Fashion Week calendar. The 30-piece assortment was assembled in little time — testifying to a sure stage of maturity from the label, he recommended.
Stylized wave designs drawn by Twentieth-century Japanese artist Yuzan Mori adorned clothes discretely — adorning the shoulders of a black high, in a single occasion. The reference symbolized the turbulence of a “post-Brexit, COVID-19-limiting world,” however scratch just a little deeper and one discovers the artist additionally held an curiosity in selling craftsmanship. The underlying premise of Gravalot is to supply an alternative choice to the business trend system, drawing on native manufacturing to craft kinds for a global viewers.
“As a small company, you’re one step from disaster, every single time,” Anuna mused. Perhaps one step away from broader success, too, given this tasteful and balanced lineup.