In simply two years, rising designer Michelle Duncan has grown from showcasing a handful of tailor-made, attitude-forward garb within the moody underground Holy Ground restaurant in TriBeCa to debuting a 25-look assortment, her largest up to now, and her first official runway present for New York Fashion Week. While the designer’s fashions have at all times held a singular and particular “prep-meets-punk-meets-power-businesswoman” viewpoint, spring displayed progress by way of silhouette (particularly in daywear); palette (vibrant pink! fiery crimson!), and a surprisingly sexier really feel (influenced immediately by the recent Miami solar, the place Duncan had not too long ago escaped to from the New York chilly final winter).
The look: An extension of Duncan’s hallmarks: juxtaposing timeless, closely tailor-made types with sudden particulars and a brand new upbeat palette.
Quote of observe: “I had been in Miami from the pandemic — there was something about this personal transformation that was happening, in that color was suddenly everywhere for me,” Duncan mentioned postshow. “I was thinking about how our aesthetic was black and dark, (which is still our thing) but wanted to bring it, add a more feminine side. I had a lot more joy and hope in my own life, from his transformation. That’s what I wanted to reflect through the clothing; everyone wants to have a good time now, and feel great.”
Key items: New takes on poplin shirting: candy shirtdresses or standout cornflower blue tiered tunic, worn unbuttoned over an identical pleated, embroidered skirt with sheer knee-high socks and Doc Martens oxfords. Finely tailor-made Savile Row-inspired separates: signature tartan types, pleated midi skirts and drop-waist clothes; boyish short-shorts, and a bubblegum pink blazer and matching cropped prime, paired with low-slung crimson trousers and mesh tights. Baby-doll brand T-shirts with voluminous, embellished cupcake skirts — the concept was continued right into a choice of horny, edgy-yet-timeless cocktail choices, like a easy body-hugging LBD or slip-style tank atop a crimson grommet-embellished skirt.
The takeaway: Although debuting constant, up to date variations of signature (now core) types made sense for her runway debut, Duncan ought to lean in confidently into her new, expanded assortment concepts and silhouettes for her subsequent effort. They each felt in keeping with the model’s core DNA.