ATHENS, Greece — Maria Grazia Chiuri, who has made feminism the guiding theme of her tenure at Dior, might scarcely have picked a greater location for her cruise assortment than Greece, a rustic whose mythology spawned a battalion of highly effective feminine deities, from Athena to Nemesis.
The goddess robe is to the Italian designer what the Bar jacket was to Christian Dior. A staple of her collections, it embodies not simply the female divine, but additionally a sure notion of freedom — its loosely draped, pleated folds the antithesis of the corseted rigor imposed by Dior’s architectural designs within the Fifties.
This season, Chiuri is propelling the peplos — the gown historically worn by girls in historical Greece — into the twenty first century by combining classically elegant robes, seemingly lifted from the caryatid sculptures on the Acropolis, with athleisure staples and futuristic sneakers: Nike the goddess meets Nike the sportswear maker, so to talk.
“It gives this idea that they are not statues, but are active in the world,” she defined throughout a preview in Paris. “It’s really something absolutely contemporary: all the things that are under the dress are technical things that you can use also to run.”
To emphasize her level, Chiuri will present the gathering right this moment on the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens in a livestreamed present scheduled to happen at 8.30 p.m. CET, setting the scene for the upcoming Summer Olympics in Tokyo.
“The idea to show inside the stadium was my obsession, because I think it speaks about the relationship that the clothes have with the body — a body that is a performing body,” Chiuri stated of the venue, which hosted the opening and shutting ceremonies of the primary fashionable Olympics in 1896.
“The peplos also is an element that allows the body to move freely, that evokes women in movement, and no one more than an athlete moves their body in a really active way. So my idea was to culminate all these elements inside the show,” she added.
Stripping the robes of their eveningwear connotations, she imagined a wardrobe for a goddess on the go. Chiuri draped panels of pleated white jersey over a flesh-colored bodysuit dotted with pearls; layered a diaphanous pleated gown over a hooded bodysuit, and paired a white vest with a free neckline with waterproof monitor pants.
Her private favourite is a toga-like black recycled nylon gown with adjustable drawstrings. “I want it for myself: I think it’s super functional, super cool,” she enthused.
The designer has tried her share of sports activities prior to now. (A couple of years in the past, she even took a trapeze lesson along with her then-design companion, Pierpaolo Piccioli.) These days, the 57-year-old practices Pilates and yoga at residence. “Because of my age, now I have to be safe, also because I broke my femur two years ago,” she stated apologetically.
Still, she’ll be watching the Summer Olympics — assuming the occasion, postponed by 12 months as a result of coronavirus pandemic, goes forward regardless of public opposition. “My husband is super obsessed with all kinds of sport. He’s a completely typical Italian man, so we see everything,” she stated. “I really like the high jump. I think it’s beautiful.”
Anyone impressed to hitch a gymnasium will discover a full array of exercise gear at Dior, similar to leggings, boxing shorts and operating bras in patterns designed by artist Pietro Ruffo, together with an Aegean blue motif impressed by the our bodies of athletes painted on vintage Greek vases.
In an echo of her debut assortment for the home in 2016, Chiuri included mesh or embroidered fencing vests that she likened to the protect of Athena, the goddess of struggle. “These corsets protect your solar plexus,” she stated. “It’s also my idea to translate a reference like the Dior corset in a contemporary way.”
The start line for the gathering was a classic trend shoot that includes fashions in robes from Christian Dior’s fall 1951 high fashion assortment in entrance of the Acropolis. The model can also be utilizing the occasion to showcase the creativity of native artists and artisans, because it has carried out with different vacation spot resort exhibits in Lecce, Italy, and Marrakech, Morocco.
Chiuri tapped Aris Tzernovakis, a tailor and embroiderer primarily based close to Argos in southern Greece, to embroider a basic Bar jacket and her signature Book tote bag, and artist Christiana Soulou to make drawings of feminine figures from mythology that seem within the folds of clothes.
Pulling out a replica of “Goddesses: Mysteries of the Feminine Divine” by Joseph Campbell, she stated getting ready the gathering had impressed her to revisit her historical past courses.
“It was beautiful to have the opportunity to rethink and to see these references that probably, when I studied them at school, I didn’t read and learn about with the same interest and consciousness that I have today. That’s touching me a lot,” she mused.
Chiuri sees a direct hyperlink between figures like Arachne, who challenged Athena to a weaving contest, and clothes. “Craftsmanship, especially the loom, is really the first human activity,” she famous. “It’s like a thread that goes around the word, that speaks about our humanity.”
The designer has typically spoken concerning the significance of preserving this historical know-how, or danger dropping it eternally — a mission she has mixed with a practical method to dressing girls.
She’s definitely not the primary to pair night robes with sneakers, however coming from a home like Dior, it was the clearest acknowledgment but of sportswear’s takeover of excessive trend — and of the patron’s relentless urge for food for activewear following a yr of successive lockdowns.
Grimacing on the thought of sporting excessive heels, Chiuri pointed on the model’s new Dior Vibe sneakers, that includes a clear higher with gold or silver accents. “We are doing fashion for now, not for the past and not for the future, but about now. After the pandemic — though we’re not completely out of it yet — we want to move,” she stated.
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