For a designer simply getting began, Charles de Vilmorin has already understood an essential precept: by no means be the place they anticipate you.
Known for his extremely colourful creations, impressed by his fantastical drawings and the work of French artist Niki de Saint Phalle, the 24-year-old designer threw a curveball by making his second couture assortment totally black.
“I wanted to show a different facet of my work,” he mentioned in a preview. “With this collection, I also wanted my brand to propose pieces that are more accessible and more wearable.”
Exit the hourglass-shaped, hand-painted wearable sculptures of final season in favor of a Gothic lineup that was someplace on the crossroads between a pirate shipwreck and the wardrobe of Morticia Addams.
De Vilmorin showcased the items in a static presentation at Maison Baccarat, in what was once the ballroom of artwork patron Marie-Laure de Noailles, in addition to a brief movie directed by Colin Solal Cardo, the person behind music movies for the likes of Christine and the Queens, Charli XCX and Robyn.
It featured particular appearances by rising French singer Joanna, who carried out her tune “Maman,” and Bilal Hassani, who represented France within the Eurovision Song Contest in 2019 and has damaged boundaries along with his androgynous look. Wearing a harness of dinosaur-like golden spikes on his again, he sang “Monster Under Your Bed,” an unique monitor from his upcoming album.
The video was shot in a sand quarry close to Fontainebleau, not removed from Paris – the proper foil for the sculptural attire, which mixed graphic cuts with nature-inspired ornamental arabesques.
A fitted, black long-sleeved robe with a pooling prepare got here with a detachable petal-like collar and cuffs formed with steel wire, whereas a dishabille slip with cutout sides sprouted fronds of cock feathers.
Frayed edges added to the castaway vibe, although there have been additionally hints of a newly industrial sensibility, particularly within the calligraphy-print brand bomber jacket and floor-length skirt. De Vilmorin mentioned he’d been taking notes at his different day job as artistic director of Rochas.
“It really allows me to express my creativity with my own brand, but it’s also teaching me a commercial side that is super important and that I want to develop with my own label as well. So whatever the outcome, it’s incredibly beneficial,” mentioned the designer, who is ready to make his runway debut for Rochas in September.
In the meantime, he’s certainly one of 9 finalists shortlisted for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, only a yr after launching his model on the top of the coronavirus pandemic. With this volte-face, he has cleverly signalled that he’s not a one-trick pony.
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