MILAN — The title of Bulgari’s new excessive jewellery assortment couldn’t be extra acceptable: Magnifica.
Indeed, the gems offered throughout a two-day occasion listed below are undoubtedly magnificent, and Bulgari dubbed the lineup as essentially the most treasured haute joaillerie assortment it has ever offered.
A shocking spinel exemplifies this declare. Hailing from Tajikistan, and weighing 131.21 carats, it’s the fourth largest spinel by way of carat weight on the earth however “the most beautiful in terms of quality,” in keeping with jewellery creation and gem shopping for director Lucia Silvestri. Mounted within the Imperial Spinel necklace, the gem is surrounded by a cascade of diamonds and emerald beads, in a daring colour mixture of inexperienced and scorching pink tones. Despite the massive measurement of the spinel, the necklace could be very mild — a type of “second skin on your neck,” Silvestri mentioned.
Bulgari selected to unveil the gathering in Milan for the primary time, after previous displays in Venice, Rome and Capri.
“We always celebrate Italian craftsmanship with these events, but in this case, we also wanted to pay tribute to Milan, which has been so hard hit by the COVID-19 pandemic and fought so hard to recover,” mentioned chief govt officer Jean-Christophe Babin on Thursday. “This is the first major live event in the city and we want to help it restart.”
A personal live performance at La Scala and a dinner at Cracco that night have been to be adopted on Friday by a lunch occasion on the Bulgari Hotel.
“Milan is often associated with business, but it is also a symbol of design and we want to help promote it as an artistic and touristic site,” mentioned Babin, noting that two jewellery items have been impressed by the town’s medieval Castello Sforzesco.
Another first included filming the gathering on the luxurious procuring arcade Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, which Babin mentioned had by no means been used for a jewellery presentation. Given the journey restrictions, the movie will assist broadcast the gathering globally. In addition, the corporate is planning to deliver Magnifica to Asia and Japan specifically this summer time; to China in September; to the U.S. in October, and to the Middle East in December.
While Italy has solely only recently began to ease its restrictions, worldwide journey remains to be sluggish, however Babin mentioned he had met with a number of European excessive jewellery prospects and some Americans. The Chinese are more and more extra necessary however American and European excessive web price people stay the primary prospects of excessive jewellery, he provided, whereas the higher center class is rising extra in China and Latin America.
There is an “even stronger focus” on the U.S. for Bulgari now, and specifically on the jewellery and timepieces class within the area. Babin mentioned that by way of the union of Bulgari and the just lately acquired Tiffany & Co., dad or mum firm LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has “an advantage and an extraordinary opportunity for market shares in the U.S.” The two manufacturers are complementary, he famous.
“There is a strong appetite for authentic Italian luxury and craftsmanship, for certified and traceable gems and 2021 is increasingly looking similar to 2019,” noticed Babin. He touted the resilience of bijou, “an eternal value, whose prices grow exponentially in time,” and Bulgari’s “unique, rare gems,” noting that the spinel itself was price 16 million euros. “You can’t go wrong in buying a precious jewel.”
The govt mentioned that, given the restrictions and the influence of the pandemic, there’s a lot accrued liquidity and excessive web price people are prepared to spend money on these manufacturers which can be “bold” and that assure “extraordinary gems and craftsmanship.” In addition, he believes that the pandemic has “strengthened the value of authenticity, transparency and ethics” and that prospects pivot towards these manufacturers which have constructed a powerful emotional connection all through the well being emergency. Bulgari, as reported, has made donations and invested in analysis to combat the coronavirus.
The Magnifica assortment, which includes a collection of 350 masterpieces counting 60-plus designs priced within the tens of millions, additionally celebrates a bunch of “fearless and revolutionary women, who took bold decisions that changed the course of things at the time,” Silvestri mentioned.
They vary from orator Hortensia in Ancient Rome and Maharani of Indore, to Chinese author Eileen Chang and Seventeenth-century painter Artemisia Gentileschi, who put a brand new concentrate on the central position of girls in society. The Baroque Spiral necklace “reflects her rebellious spirit,” Silvestri mentioned. The jewel is characterised by a spiral geometry, the place cabochon rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds are set one after the other at totally different ranges and inclinations in an intricate 3D creation.
Art Deco artist Tamara de Lempicka impressed the drawing of the Bulgari Diamond Swan necklace. Two stylized swan heads, their tiny eyes product of pink diamonds, are surrounded by a triumph of articulated diamond parts, punctuated by mother-of-pearl touches, recreating the birds’ wings. The necklace is matched by a set of earrings.
The Fluid Tanzanite jewel pays tribute to the distinctive model of Zaha Hadid, who years in the past revisited Bulgari’s Bzero.1 design, and the “powerful spirit of a woman that followed her dreams,” Silvestri mentioned. “She was so charismatic and she remains legendary.” In this creation, Bulgari’s tubogas is enriched with pavé-set diamonds on a design impressed by Hadid’s signature use of curves and irregular geometries and a central 77.88-carat tanzanite cabochon.
The Ruby Metamorphosis is a flexible high-jewelry piece that may be worn in at the very least 9 other ways and which required 2,500 hours to be accomplished. It consists of removable items, together with a diamond choker and a sequence. A treasured 10.02-carat vintage cushion-cut central Mozambique ruby is central to the jewel. There can be a gentle silk-like tassel mixing baguette diamonds and cabochon rubies. “It truly is a work of art, hiding a complex, articulated and carefully studied structure that enables to easily transform it,” Silvestri mentioned.
The Emerald Elipse hides an intricate mechanism of jointed parts, with pavé-set diamonds and buff-top emeralds creating an ethereal tubular design, enriched with seven emerald beads and a central 62-carat Zambian pear emerald.
A 93.83-carat cabochon-cut Colombian emerald is positioned within the jaws of a snake, “as if it were one of its eggs,” Silvestri mentioned. The Hypnotic Emerald necklace required 1,800 hours to be accomplished and the snake’s physique options pavé-set diamonds, in addition to diamond baguettes and emerald cabochons, in an intricate artisanal building.
Inspired by a Bulgari necklace courting again to 1969, the Mediterranean Queen stands out with an intricate gold and diamond building harking back to waves, requiring 2,400 hours to be accomplished. Five oval cushion-cut Paraiba tourmalines in an aqua inexperienced colour are linked by sinuous, curved parts with cabochon emeralds and diamonds. “It’s like diving into the waters off the Sardinia island,” mentioned Silvestri, who all the time speaks passionately about her work and that of the artisans creating the jewels.
The eye-popping Color Legacy necklace combines seven oval aquamarines, totaling virtually 84 carats, matched with 16 oval rubellites, 32 buff-top amethysts minimize in Italy to observe the necklace’s silhouette, in addition to 15 pear diamonds and diamonds.