Olivier Theyskens delved deep into Azzaro’s style archives throughout a go to in January to Paris’ Palais Galliera museum.
“They have some of the key pieces from the great eras, some of the designs he did for famous singers: dresses in sequins, with very strong designs, at the end of the ’60s and ’70s,” mentioned Theyskens, referring to Loris Azzaro and his “iconoclastic” couture strategy on the time.
Then, designers tried out new methods and supplies for extra glam than Baroque outcomes.
“You could move, it didn’t look too precious,” mentioned Theyskens. “I think this modernity is timeless, because the way they were dressing women up was with a simplicity that still resonates today, makes women look good — and is fun.”
The identical could possibly be mentioned for Theyskens’ couture assortment for fall. He took Azzaro’s codes, like its signature three rings, and kinds, and made them extra his personal.
“For the collection I wanted something a bit more nocturnal,” defined Theyskens of the lineup, which was primarily in black, with some silver and white, filled with embroideries and different ornamentation.
He embellished a gown with purple beaded chains, alongside its deep facet slit. A minidress with a plunging neckline appeared fabricated from liquid silver material. There was plenty of shine and sparkle right here — even an androgynous swimsuit had crystal sequins.
Geometric shapes and asymmetries abounded, as did the melding of tailor-made and delicate silhouettes. A button-down shirt got here paired with outsized silver-colored shirts, for a extra relaxed look.