Andrew Gn’s spring assortment was impressed by the camp basic “Boom!” — although not a lot by Elizabeth Taylor’s histrionic efficiency than by her memorable wardrobe, designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Italian label Tiziani.
“She’s always been my icon,” the designer mentioned in a preview at his Paris showroom. Gn loves a superb ’60s second, and he channeled Taylor’s flowing outfits with objects together with high-collared blouses with opulent jeweled buttons, and a white caftan with a sequined collar and a hanging purple coral print.
Corals have been a recurring theme in his collections since 2005 and this season, he partnered with the Great Barrier Reef Foundation on an consciousness marketing campaign to save lots of the endangered reefs.
The assortment movie was shot on the National Museum of the History of Immigration, certainly one of Gn’s favourite museums and a gem of Art Deco structure. Its brightly coloured reception corridor was the proper foil for the outfits, which got here in a palette of black and white, dotted with brilliant jewel hues.
Most hanging had been the brand new shoulder proportions, starting from shelf-like, on minidresses, tailor-made jackets and jumpsuits, to leg-of-mutton model, such because the broderie anglaise sleeves on a pristine white hourglass night robe.
Gn, who was a shoulder pad devotee as a youngster within the ‘80s, has always favored smaller shoulders in his collections. “All of a sudden, I felt that, coming out of the pandemic, it’s a bloody jungle on the market for girls,” he mentioned. “I just want to get women prepared. It’s psychological.”
The designer has seen in uptick in demand for occasionwear, however mentioned his clients had been on the lookout for simpler alternate options. This season, he used hardly any embroidery, focusing as an alternative on daring shapes and hanging particulars, such because the oversize metallic buttons on a cropped black jumpsuit.
“In fact, the jumpsuit is a new way of dressing for the evening,” Gn mentioned. “People are dressing up, but they don’t dress up in the same way. It might come later. People want to go out, but they don’t necessarily want a fully beaded gown. I think it’s all about understated elegance now.”